My Keyboard Journey

As a professional developer, I spend a lot of time with my hands on a keyboard.

Many many years ago, I was privileged to use an IBM Model M keyboard.  I really enjoyed it, but trends changed.  Microsoft came out with a fancy looking ergonomic keyboard and I had the chance to try it out.  I liked the shape, but the keys – especially the space bar – were rather unpleasant.  So, I went back to the Model M.  I even managed to pick up a “space saver” TKL (“ten key” less) version, which is designed more for server racks

MS ergonomic keyboard
MS Natural Ergonomic 4000

Over time, though, I just used whatever was attached.  My jobs at the time just had a bundled Compaq or Dell keyboard and I just used it.  Unless they keyboard was really terrible, I managed and didn’t make a fuss.  When I started working for myself, I tried out a Microsoft Natural Ergonomic 4000.  They had come a LONG way since the first one, the key feel was much better.

After a little while, I switched to a Mac.  The Apple keyboards are actually pretty good, better than most, but they just don’t have much key travel, this is the nature of their low-profile design.  I plugged in my Microsoft Ergonomic again.  I decided I liked it enough to even get a second one after the first one wore out.

IBM Model M
Two words: awesome.

All of this time, I still had my Model M.  It stayed with me through about 5 moves, stuck in a closet, still has the exceptionally long PS/2 cable (still coiled up, it’s probably 10′ long).  It’s heavy, it’s fairly loud.  It uses “buckling springs” under the keys that gives a unique progressive resistance and feedback.

I never had any problems with my hands and wrists with this keyboard.  I figured it must give your hands enough strength to keep healthy, or something like that.  But, it was PS/2.  So it limited my opportunities to use it.

I started wondering if I could get a better keyboard, a mechanical keyboard rather than a membrane keyboard.  This is the only way to get really good feedback from each key.  Unfortunately, cheap keyboards are so popular because they’re, you know, cheap.  A good keyboard starts to cost something.  I thought about it though, and realized I would pay a fair bit for a really good mouse but for some reason always cheaped out on a keyboard that I use much more… so… I set myself a slightly higher budget and started to search.

It seems like most of the focus these days for these higher-end keyboards is on gamers.  One main feature is called n-key rollover, so you can hit a whole bunch of keys and have them all register.  (Here’s a test to try your own keyboard: hold down both shift keys and try to type “the quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog”.  Yes, this is challenging.  If you don’t have a similar feature, you may be dismayed to see many letters missing).

There are a number of flavours of key switches, mostly from the Cherry company, they are identified by a color, such as black, blue, red, etc.  It’s very hard to know what kind you want, because very rarely are these keyboards available to try in stores!  I managed to find one or two, and gave it the swat test, and did not like it at all.  (It seems like the one I tried were the blue variety).

Other features are cool, but not that necessary for work, like LED backlighting.  I didn’t need to see this feature, though it would be cool.

My new keyboard
My new keyboard

I finally found in a review a reference to the Matias tactile keyboards.  I checked them out and it sounded really good.  I wasn’t worried too much about the volume, though I heard the Tactile Pro described as “antisocially loud”.  They also made one called the Quiet Pro, though, and I thought that only offered advantages over the non-quiet version.  They had a Mac version!  If the caption didn’t give it away, I got it, and I’m using it right now.  It’s really really good!  It’s really easy to get used to typing on one of these, so that when you go back to a cheap keyboard it feels jarringly wrong.

At the same time, though, I found a wonderful project online called something like TMK which is an open source driver/converter for older keyboards.  With Teensy (or a few flavours of Arduino) you can convert a PS/2 keyboard to USB and add a ton of really cool features to it at the same time.

What this means is… I realized my Model M can come back to life!  I have most of the parts and at least one more on order, but I will build this very soon.  I will report when I get it running.  I will have my choice of great mechanical keyboards, well, at my fingertips.

iDon’tCloud

The recent update of iOS and OS X brought along Apple’s new cash grab photo organizing scheme framework.  To be honest though, it is very slick.  It makes photo storage and access very secure and ubiquitous.  You don’t need to worry about where your photos are and you (probably) don’t need to worry about having space on your devices.  Like Apple’s typical catchphrase, “it just works”.  It kinda represents the ideal of cloud storage – you don’t know or care where it is, but it follows you everywhere and rains your data down whenever you want it.  Also it obscures the sun.  And makes visibility at higher altitudes a bit of a challenge.

Hold on, those last two might not fit in to the desired description.  Just leave them off for now.

Except this convenience is gonna cost you.  iCloud storage prices have come down, but they are still a little on the pricy side.  The lowest end (20GB) is $1 a month, and perfect for the security and convenience of cloud-based iOS device backup.  After that though, competitors start to look a little nicer in the price & capacity range.  Both Amazon and Microsoft have decently-priced tiers that provide unlimited space.

So with the constraints of iCloud storage, they introduced their new Photos app.  (It’s not bad, but it’s no Aperture).  I tried importing and uploading my photos, but as you guessed it, I ran out of space.  I have about 10,000 photos, which is a lot but not a lot a lot, you know…  Now, iCloud Photos is by no means required to use Photos.app, but having lost photos a few times to hard drive deaths, I decided I need some sort of cloud backup.  It would also be nice to save on the limited SSD space of our MacBook Air by keeping those photos primarily in the cloud.  But iCloud wasn’t it.

Enter Flickr

Flik
No not him, another one. Certainly © Disney.

I signed up for Flickr quite a while ago, although at the time it wasn’t really anything that compelling.  Then Marissa Meyer came along and kicked Flickr into the spotlight by giving 1TB away for free.  I instantly became a fan, yet I didn’t use it as much as I’d like.  There was a hurdle.  I could auto-upload from the iOS app, and that was wonderfully seamless (I was pleasantly surprised that many of my photos were up there already).  The hurdle, however, is the desktop.  When you import photos using a card or plugging your camera in… or you do some editing, then what?  I have a couple of plugins that allow you to upload to Flickr, and they work pretty good, but it’s a single-photo manual process… subject to my easily distracted mind (ooo something shiny!)

A few days ago, though, they came out with v4.0 of the iOS app.  I heard some raving about it, but the previous iOS app was already very very good.  Then I looked into the web – and more importantly – the Uploadr.  This is an agent that sits on your computer and does what it says.  It monitors your photo libraries and selected folders and uploads them to your Flickr account.  It deduplicates too, so you won’t have multiple unnecessary copies.

The web now has a camera roll that lets you do bulk operations like batch delete  (oops, I uploaded a screenshot folder) or album management.  It’s a little clumsy at the moment, since it falls back to the old interface in a few places, but already it’s very welcome.

Is it a complete “just works” solution like iCloud?  Almost, but not yet.

The one thing that is missing is the elimination or reduction of local libraries.  It would be nice to have an app that could access your hosted library, and optionally cache locally some full-resolution images, so you get the benefits of both cloud and local photo libraries.

Kinda like iCloud Photos.  Only affordable.

Clone a Clone

So I had yet another WD MyBook die on me a couple of days ago.  And I still went out and bought another one (what was Einstein’s definition of insanity, again?)… This one was only two years old but these things are still quite cheap and very convenient to get.  Maybe someday when I have more money I will get a proper NAS enclosure.  For now, my pattern is to buy a new one every year.  They’ve almost doubled in size every time, so I can just clone everything to the new one and go from there.

Since I had such great experience with my WD MyBook Live, I decided to get the next version, a MyCloud.  This is slightly improved, similar in appearance, also with a GB network port but this one also has a USB 3.0 host on it, so I can buy another, regular drive next and slave it off of this one.

My previous scheme didn’t seem to work well with this one, though.  I was unable to make an unattended rsync to push from that drive to this one because these drives are set up to use root as the ssh user, and it’s not set up to use PermitRootLogin without-password .  It always seems to prompt for the password, which won’t work when AFK.

Until I figure that one out, I looked for another solution.  The coolest discovery was that these drives are actually running Debian.  After some research I found out that lftp will mirror a remote directory over FTP.  Of course, lftp is not installed on these drives, however, after running…

I had them installed (on both the 2012 and 2015 vintage drives).

Next was the task of setting them up!  I found a good post on StackExchange (well, ServerFault) here that helped a lot.  I ended up using this:

With that I had some options I could use by uncommenting DELETE or TESTMODE, for example.  One additional gotcha is that it doesn’t retain the source’s ownership, but since this is such a basic setup, I just chown all the files in the LCD variable to my username.

The password for that user is in cleartext, in the file.  If you are not comfortable with that, do not use this.

It still doesn’t seem to be running in cron yet, but I need time to experiment some more.  I still much prefer the SSH method but I want to get it working reliably and repeatably.  I need to reimplement much of this each time the firmware gets updated, and copying a few files is much better than having to edit sshd config files each time.

Swype and iOS keyboards

I have experimented with replacement keyboards on Android from time to time.  Though I had SwiftKey installed for a year, I mostly used it as a regular keyboard.

So it wasn’t a real thrill for me when Apple announced third-party keyboards on iOS 8.   I found the iOS keyboard quite good, the design was really good and led to fast and mostly error-free typing.

The problem with most mobile keyboards is text prediction – autocorrect can never get you entirely what you want, and more often than not it was an exercise in frustration.  I didn’t find the iOS 7 predictions too bad, but when iOS 8 came out with QuickType, something happened.  It seemed like the autocorrect was much more aggressive, and more often frustratingly wrong.  So I started looking into third-party keyboards.

Fleksy was my first look, because it was free at release – it is not a huge leap for a new user to start using this keyboard, the keys are in the same spot and you just tap to enter letters.  However, this keyboard relies heavily on prediction.  Most of the time it does really well, but when it gets it wrong, you need to remember and perform a gesture to “unfix” it, or cycle through alternate replacements.  I found this more cumbersome than just using the iOS keyboard and being alert.

SwiftKey was free, and I liked the idea of gesture-based scribble-typing.  I had used it before, so it should be a simple switch, right?  Well, it was, but it still felt very clumsy. Once again, I hadn’t gained anything, it was just different.  I found myself fighting to switch back to the regular iOS keyboard more often.

Now, Swype came to my attention the past day or so, because they made it free.  That’s evidently a great way to get me to try something I am skeptical about.  Well, right away, I was impressed.  Multiple themes, a case-changing keyboard (it shows you the characters in caps when caps is on, etc), nice optional gestures, etc.  Mostly though, I liked the comparatively non-aggressive nature of the text suggestions. When an unusual word comes up, the quick type area allows you to dynamically add the word to your personal dictionary.  The personal dictionary can be edited at any time to remove accidental additions (or those times you were SURE that’s how it was spelled).  It even includes emoji in the autocorrect suggestions!  Just type “smile” and there’s a smiley.   That may seem slower than picking it, but remember you can swipe over the characters in order to kinda sketch out a little scribble that brings a smile to your keyboard, and maybe even to your face.

On top of all that, there’s a special calculator-style numeric keyboard available under the Swype key, if you want to enter numbers more comfortably.

There’s lots going for this keyboard.  Totally worth grabbing for free right now, if the deal is still on, and if not, it still might be a worthwhile investment if it has gone back to its regular 99 cent price.

Pebbled

When the Apple Watch was released, I was highly intrigued. I’m an on-again off-again watch wearer. I tend to lean to analog watches, though, something about the “liquid” display of time is very interesting to me. My last watch was a cool analog Timex chronograph. It had the capability to work as a stopwatch but the display was a little difficult to read.  So, I do like me some extra functionality.

The $349 cost of the Apple timepiece was quite a blow to my hopes, though. I had mentally prepared myself for a $300 top end. Still expensive and I can’t as easily justify it as I could an iPhone or iPad.

But I started to see the value of a smart watch.  I again looked up Pebble, the original smart watch success story.

Is it an Apple Watch replacement? Far from it. It’s plastic where the Apple is Aluminum. It has buttons instead of a digital encoder and touch screen. It’s black and white (e-paper) instead of LED or OLED color (whatever it is). But, it was only $199. At that price though, you were getting less than half of the Apple Watch, it was a hard sell.

But they read the market rather well, and boom, they lowered the price to $99.  Also, boom, I ordered one.  Smart choice on their part?  Well, they gained at least one customer they wouldn’t have otherwise, and I suspect it’s considerably more than just me.  I hope and suspect they can move a lot more volume at this “impulse” level.

So on its own merits, apart from being relatively cheap, what does it have going for it?

Software

First of all, there are some built-in apps, like a few basic watch faces, a music control, notifications wrangler, and alarms.

The firmware development has been fast and furious.  There have been three significant updates (including notifications and emoji, quick launch, background apps, fitness tracking, auto-updates) in the last month (or few weeks?).

Third-party app development looks pretty decent.  You can even write apps in Javascript, using their SDK.  The CPU is respectable, as is the RAM, so there’s no dramatic impact to using Javascript that I can detect.  But.  The hard limitation is 8 apps and watch faces, and it doesn’t matter how big they are.  I do kinda understand in so doing they eliminated the need for their users to know anything about resource-wrangling.  But let’s be frank here, this customer base is made up of geeks.  It sounds like a future version of the firmware will remove this limitation and loosen things up a bit more.

You may notice I said apps and watch faces.  These are two categories of software you can have, apps allow access to the buttons and faces are a little more lightweight and require the accelerometer to allow you to interact.  You can scroll between faces with the right-side up and down buttons.  Apps either require a trip to the menu or assignment to long-presses on the two buttons.

There are a fair number of apps in the store, from fitness trackers (a hot category at the moment), to weather apps, to GPS displays, to Starbucks payment cards.  Oh and timekeepers of course.  Because of the 8-app limit, a few popular apps will bundle several small utility apps into the same executable, and they work fairly well.

Hardware

Perhaps the biggest distinguishing feature of the watch is what they call an e-paper display. This is not to be confused with e-ink, this is really LCD. A low-power, high-reflectivity LCD, so in full daylight the screen is exceptionally visible.  Technically a higher resolution version of what was in my first eBook reader, the Aluratek Libre. Since the power draw is low, the battery life is estimated at about a week. That is very easy to live with, and the big distinguishing feature of the hardware.

There is a potential issue with this display.  If you have polarized glasses, you will especially see dark streaks in it (sometimes without polarized glasses too).  I stick to dark screen displays anyway, so I don’t mind.  When I use polarized sunglasses on my iPhone I notice big color problems anyway so I expect some weirdness anyway.

There are quite a few sensors in the little thing, including accelerometer and compass.
Communication is handled by bluetooth, Bluetooth LE most of the time (Bluetooth 2.1 is used for music control and some more data-intensive processes). This means that a phone or other partner device is required.  Ideally you want something with a data package, but you could certainly get by as long as you didn’t expect to update more connectivity from your watch than your phone will have.  The phone app acts as a proxy (or a bridge) to the Internet.

Implementation

The fact that I need to add another heading here is a good sign. If the device ended at specs it would be another nice geek toy, and that’s all.

Notifications are a big deal.  It is nice not to have to dig out my phone to see what that noise was about… but sometimes it’s a bit overwhelming.  When I get notifications of email, they often come in batches of 6 or 7 (I have my phone only poll every hour or so).  That can be a little annoying to have the flood, especially when they’re triggered by opening the mail app on my phone. I don’t need any notifications when I’m right there!  I suspect this might be a limitation with the way Apple feeds notifications to the Pebble app, though.

The phone app does a nice job of managing installation, removal and configuration of apps. This is important because of the app-limit. Many configurable apps have a modular chunk of code, seemingly pre-installed in the Pebble app to prevent post-review code downloads.  Some of these have obvious jQuery UI front-ends (or worse), which is unfortunate but understandable… Still, the illusion of seamlessness is gone.  As well as it works, it looks hokey. They should have written their own library, or even just an aggressive CSS makeover to enforce an “App Shop” look and feel.

There doesn’t seem to be a mechanism at this point in the Pebble App Store for paid apps, but most of the more complex apps have “companion” apps you can purchase through the respective phone App Stores.  Having to go through the Apple review process, at least, enforces a little more visual consistency.

Bottom Line

There are only so many things you need or want on your wrist.  You won’t see an explosion of apps on the App Store for these, but a few essentials will rise to the top.

But really, does this thing add to my life?  Hmm.  In a strictly first-world scenario, I’d have to say yes!  Basic apps that you want at hand are really at hand.  The Misfit app is quite good and actually helps me to keep my activity level up throughout the day.  I’m happy to tell people about the weather forecast whenever I can.

It’s not ugly.  There’s no denying it is a big rectangle on your wrist, but the design isn’t too bad.  The plastic is highly glossy and there are lots of skins available if you want to change color. The band is replaceable with any standard 22mm band so there’s a lot of visual variety available for a reasonable cost.

Speaking of that reasonable cost… yes this watch will become obsolete in a couple of years.  But, at this price, is that a big deal?  Maybe by then the Apple Watch will be more accessible.

Maglite Solitaire LED Conversion

I got a Maglite Solitaire LED flashlight this summer, but I already had two regular incandescent ones.  Once you get used to the LED one, the incandescent one is so… dim… and yellow.  It’s really really convenient, though, and I’d hate to just drawer it, or worse yet, junk it.

I got a cool little module from eBay that just plugs right in and you’re done.  About $7.  Is that as good as it gets?

I found a pretty good tutorial on YouTube about how to mod an existing one to LED, so I thought I’d try it, and what is explained below is that exact project, with some slight changes.  The main thing is that a 1.5v cell isn’t enough to drive a decent LED light, so I’d either need to build a teeny tiny booster (probably what was done in the module above) or change the source voltage.  Voltage it is!

The space is limited in the battery compartment.  So what to do?  Very small batteries with 1.5v… sounds like a watch battery.  Also sounds expensive… but, the YouTube video explained how you can get an A23 battery and peel it open to gain 8 LR932 cells!

Unleashed the power.
Unleashed the power.

I found a double-pack of these batteries for just over $5.  Shop around, the prices can vary considerably.  Make sure it’s an alkaline battery, apparently there are some carbon batteries this size but they aren’t going to have anything near as tidy inside (i.e. “gunk”).

Note, If you do this, keep the positive and negative terminal bits.

You will only need 3 cells for one light, so put aside 5 of them.  Now we need to make a spacer so that the battery reaches both terminals inside the flashlight.  Get a pen tube and cut it to approximately 30mm.  You don’t need to be laser-precise, but get as close as you can.

Next, LEDs really should have a current-limiting resistor to prevent them blowing up.  Technically these cells probably have enough internal resistance to it’s not a problem, but I wanted to add a tiny amount of extra just in case.  The video suggested a 68 ohm resistor, but I didn’t have that, so I used a 51 ohm one.  I did say a tiny amount, didn’t I?  With a hammer and nail (or screw), poke holes in the top and bottom of the disassembled terminals you saved from before.  Solder one through the hole and then fish it through the pen tube and solder on the other end, again through the hole.

Spacer Age
Spacer Age

Note that the plastic may melt as you solder this, another reason to leave a mm or two to spare on the length of the tube.  With the cells and the spacer you now have a 4.5v “battery” the same length as a AAA cell.

Pop them into the battery compartment – pay attention to the orientation of the little cells, it almost seemed backwards to me at the time.  The flat side is positive and should be facing the bulb socket.

A thumbnail
A thumbnail of, well…

Now to get the LED bulb in there.  I assumed that I needed a really tiny LED, so I went and ordered some SMT ultra-bright LEDs from Amazon.  I just got them and yup they are really tiny.  These are designed for automated pick & place production but it’s not impossible to solder them manually!  I got two small cutoff leads from a capacitor and tried to figure out how to place them on this thing… first step was to get a ball of solder on each of the LED’s solder pads.  That’s fairly simple, just blob some melted solder on the bottom, and it will congeal on each pad as it should.

Lining up the leads, though, was another thing.  I decided to poke them into a cork, bend them over so they were going straight into the back of the LED and then just heat the blobs just enough to melt the leads into it.  Not too hard!

Soldered
Soldered
With a novelty size paperclip
With a novelty size paperclip for size comparison

Next, test it in the flashlight.  Remember that these are diodes, so if you plug it in one direction it may not work, even though the connection is perfect!  Try flipping the leads around and plugging it in the other way.  You too may be pleasantly blinded by the light.  (Curiously, that song was playing on Spotify just as I was doing this, and I only realized it now). If you are using needle nose pliers as I was to push in the diodes, grasping both of the leads, remember you are shorting the connection as you push it in.  It will not light up as you are doing this… so make a connection and then let it go for a second to make sure it’s working.

IMG_1964Now to trim down the leads.  I decided that the base of the LED should be at the same spot as the base of the regular bulb. Using that comparison, I snipped off the leads and then tried to carefully push the leads again into the light… and ripped the trace right off the SMT LED.  🙁

Oh well, I had ordered 50 of the little thingies (that’s the technical term), so I did it all again.  This time I was more careful, and taped off the jaws of my needle nose pliers so I could see if it was working as I was inserting it.  It worked, and blinded me again!

Factory LED (left) my mod (right)
Factory LED (left) my mod (right)

With my good eye, I could see that the tiny little LED fits through the bulb hole in the reflector with room to spare.  I actually realized as these were on order that I could have ordered actual 3mm ultra-bright LEDs and just cut and plugged it in.  Hm.  Well, let’s just say they’re on order now.  I will at least have a point for comparison (and 48 more SMT LEDs).  The connection point from the lead to the LED (say that out loud) is probably fragile, but it may have enough shock absorption in from the case and being suspended 1/4″ away from the body of the light.  In any case, I will use the spare bulb location in the base of the battery compartment for one of the other LEDs, so I will always have one even if it does break.

The result is pretty decent.  It looks like the first-party Maglite installed version is a fair bit brighter – and has the advantage of using standard AAA cells.  However, I am curious how the battery drain compares on these two, and how much different the 3mm LED is once I get it.

All in all, not too hard of a project.  The price was reasonable and the result is definitely superior to the original incandescent light.  If you had the LED and the battery on hand, you could probably do this in about 20 minutes to half an hour.

MacDVDRipper Pro 5

I was a fan of RipIt and DVDRemaster a couple of years ago, I had a nice workflow going where I could convert my DVD TV series discs into MP4s for the Apple TV  (We have a lot of discs).  I discovered MDRP since then, and I have been very happy with it, just a few clicks to rip and convert in decent quality.  I love to see an encoder max out all of my cores, too 🙂

(As a side note, it seems that DVDRemaster got purchased by the company selling MDRP, so I suppose it’s a natural upgrade path for me)

Well, v5 came out a couple of weeks ago, but I couldn’t see much that was powerfully compelling about the new features – all they said was that it was now 64-bit and embedded switchable soft-subtitles.  And something very vague about converting after the fact.  Would that matter to me?

I decided to do a face-off with a single TV season disc.  The metrics here have “buckshot accuracy” but give me an idea.  I ripped 4 episodes in v4 and the demo of v5 and compared the time-stamps… it almost appeared like v5 was twice as fast.  Yes, about 12 minutes between two episodes in v4 and 6 in v5.  WOW.  Why are they not advertising considerable speed gains?  I know the computer could have been doing a bunch more during the first encode, but surely not that much!  I ran through a couple more box sets to be sure… and yup, I can finish a disc of about 4 episodes in roughly half an hour.  Even the fans on my iMac blew at high speed for the v4 conversion and remained quiet for the v5.

This is a totally worthwhile upgrade just for that rough test.  But, I discovered the other killer feature.  Previously, you could not use .dvdmedia packages as a source – which was a drag if I wanted to distribute the ripping task to other machines using say, RipIt.  This version though, uses them just fine!  Yeah!  I didn’t find a big improvement in distributing that process though, since the convert straight from disc is so fast it’s almost not worth ripping to an image and converting from that.

The upgrade was $10 and totally worth it.

Freemium Free

It began with an outright refusal to pay extra to play more of a game. Freemium games are now dead to me.

I should define more early what I mean. In this context I don’t mean a full game or app with add-ins, like extra levels or “pro” functionality. I figure each level is very usable and enjoyable, and you get to what you pay for, many times if you so choose.

What I have come to loathe is the “gems”, “crystals” (or its analog) idea, where you have to pay in virtual and also real currency continuously to enjoy the game.

Related to this are repeated notifications that draw you back into the game – clearly to maintain their revenue stream.

I kinda find the fun game experience should do that, don’t you think? For example, PvZ was really fun. I bought it on three platforms and replayed it twice on each. PvZ 2 was really, well, not fun. It was all about maintaining an economy of premium features. You could only enjoy what you could afford in the game. It has thus been deleted.

IMG_0105.JPG

The final hanger-on was Real Racing 3. I actually did enjoy this game (when I wasn’t cursing its knife-edged grip modeling). It gave you quite a lot for free, but it still bugged me. I couldn’t repeatedly race my favorite car, because they all have an artificially imposed limit… unless, of course, you pay. Secondly, I grew annoyed at the regular (daily) notifications that “you really should be playing”. Yes I know I can turn these off, but why are they there in the first place? When I needed a few extra gig to upgrade iOS the other day, I finally unloaded it. I hadn’t played it for months anyway.

So with that, I no longer have any freemium games at all on any of my devices. When I see one on the App Store I first look at the in app purchase list and if it has a satchel or truckload or baggie of gems or crystals or whatever, I know it will not add to my fun. Instead, I will play a fantastic game like Minecraft PE or True Skate, or, who knows, maybe I’ll even start PvZ again.

Apple Pay

The third punch in the Apple show was the biggest, in my opinion.  Again, on the surface it appears to be catch-up but this is much more significant.

The competition liked to throw in an NFC antenna and then claim it was a feature, but without deep integration all it is is more hardware.  Yes you could tap to pay, but you can also do that with your credit card.  Why introduce a phone into that?  I realize there were some apps like a google Wallet that integrated with that, and that’s a good start, but missing the last step.

What’s the last step?  Security!  Apple Pay runs only on phones that have TouchID, and the Apple Watch that has a simple form of biometric security (apparently it remains unlocked only with continued skin contact on the back of the watch).

The best (and most secure) component of this whole platform is invisible to users.  The channel between banks and Apple is HUGE.  I can only guess at the infrastructure, but if you think about it, it might be something like this… the phone (I presume) generates an asymmetric key and stores the private one in an enclave on the phone and registers the public one with the bank.  When a transaction takes place, it probably creates a transaction packet with the purchase details and signs and encrypts it, passes it through to the Bank.  The credit card details are nowhere in the transaction.  No signature, no PIN, no card number or CVC.  Apple is in the loop somewhere, but they claim they never see any purchase details.  Perhaps they check the signature, match it to a user, and pass it along as an inter-bank transaction.  Since the bank is RIGHT NOW already tooled up to accept this, they likely didn’t have to make significant changes to their back ends.

Talking through my hat of course, but it has to be closer to this than any current tap-to-pay tech.

The bottom line is, Apple isn’t trying to make credit cards more convenient, they’re trying to replace them.  They’re setting themselves up as part of the infrastructure of daily commerce, which is much much bigger than selling a few technology items.  They think much bigger than “slap an NFC chip in there”, and it’s going to have a big impact in the years to come.

Apple Watch

I, like others, was drooling when Apple introduced their new wearable.  They made the competition look horrendous.  (As a side note, when I first saw the Galaxy Gear S in pictures, I was excited – it too looked great, and not Android… until I saw the actual size.  It’s absurd.)

They pitched this at everyone.  It’s not a “geek watch” and another model is a “fitness watch” and another model is a “cool watch”.  They all have factors of each.  Sure, they have different versions but nothing’s stopping you from exercising with the Edition… uh… edition (that name!).  Or wearing the Sport edition with a suit.

The digital crown is one of those obvious things that nobody thought to use.  Why did it take Apple to think of this?  Because they’re never in a panic to release something.  They don’t iterate like Microsoft (used to) or in the extreme, Samsung.  Can you believe Samsung is (as of publication) on their sixth generation of smart watches?  Have you seen anyone wearing one?  Wanna know why?

Of course I want one, but the price is high.  They “start at” $350US.  Is that the Sport one with a basic rubber(ish) band?  What if you want the Sapphire crystal version?  How much will bands cost?  This is pretty much the definition of a luxury item.  You can get a pretty awesome regular watch for $350.  Are the digital additions worth the premium over a decent analog watch – one that, remember, will still be worth a respectable percentage of that amount (if not all of it) 5 years from now?

I won’t be getting one, but not because I disagree with them in any shape or form.  I’ll see what the next product cycle or two brings around.

Now, was that a working model that Tim Cook was wearing?  If so, I’m sure Apple execs can wear them in public now as test cases and get some real-life issues resolved even before release.

If you read this far, are you wondering what I think about Android Wear?  I won’t have Google touching my person or knowing my physical status or location at all times, thanks.  The “Ok Google” thing on the Android watches creeps me out.